Asgard Launch Pad Painting & Assembly

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Applying primer to Stage

  • I used a 1/2″ dowel with masking tape to hold the Stage. This will make spray painting this part a little easier.
  •  Spray black primer on the Stage (I used Rust-Oleum Flat Black Primer, but other brands should work just as well).
  • Allow to dry.
  • NOTE: I don’t find the layer lines form these prints objectionable. However, if you want a smoother finish, use Rust-Oleum Filler Primer as your first coat. After the Filler Primer dries, wet sand the parts for a smooth finish. Finally, apply black primer. It is very important that the final coat is black primer

Adhere Arms to cardboard

  • Roll masking tap to make it “double sided”.
  • Apply this to the large flat surface of the Arms.
  • Apply Arms to a clean cardboard sheet (allow adequate spacing between arms so that you can easily spray paint all sides).

Apply black primer to Arms

  • Spray flat black primer on the Arms.
  • Once primer has dried, remove the arms from cardboard and remove tape.
  • Now spray primer on the unpainted surfaces.
  • Allow to dry

Apply Rub ‘n Buff  Metalic Finish

  • Rub ‘n Buff is available on Amazon.
  • I used “Gold Leaf” for the Stage.
  • For the arms, I used “Silver Leaf”.
  • Now the FUN part…
    • The key to a good finish is to creates areas of dark shadow (from the black primer) and metallic highlights (from the Rub ‘n Buff).
    • The reason why Rub ‘n Buff works to creates these areas of highlights and shadows is because you are literally “rubbing on” the metallic finish with an old rag. Those crevices and cracks and crannies stay darker because it’s more difficult to get the metallic stain into those areas.
    • So how do you do it…
    • WEAR GLOVES! And remember that A LITTLE goes a long way!
    • Place a tiny bit on a cloth and work it into a 2″ x 2″ spot (you definitely do not want to “glob” on the Rub ‘n Buff). It is better to start with too little rather than too much until you get a feel of how the coverage works. 
    • I’d start with the Arms. If you mess up, then you have 5 others to practice on. 
    • Now start rubbing! Don’t overdo it or you will rub out all the shadows.
    • It’s better to work it in “loosely and freely”. Applying too much pressure can also remove all those wonderful shadows.

    Adding the Decorative Exhaust

    NOTE: Resin printed decorative exhausts are available for purchase.

    • Mix up some 5-minute epoxy (wear gloves please!)
    • Using a coffee stirrer, apply a small amount of epoxy around the circumference of each exhaust opening.
    • There is a small notch on the Exhaust rim and on the Stage.
    • Insert the Exhaust into the opening lining up these notches.
    • This orientation is important for proper fit!
    • Allow epoxy to cure.

    Final Assembly

    • Insert large 1/2″ bolt through the center opening on the bottom of Stage.
      • On the other side, screw on the Drill Chuck by hand tightening.
        • Attach the Camera Cheese Plate using four M5 screws, washers, nuts. 
        • Make sure that the center 1/4″ threads on the Cheese Plate are facing out! If not, you won’t be able to attach your tripod mount. But the fix is easy, just unscrew the cheeseplate, flip it around, and then reattch it.
          • If M5 screws are attached correctly, the nuts will be recessed into the hex openings on the top surface of the Stage.
            • Done!
            • Enjoy your new Asgard Launch Pad.
            • May the God of Thunder bless all your launches!

            (Don’t forget to add the Blast Plate, that would be bad…)